TYPES OF FLOUR 2

WHEAT FLOUR

Wheat flour is the most important ingredient in the bakeshop. It provides bulkand structure to most of the baker’s products, including breads, cakes, cookies,and pastries.While the home cook depends almost entirely on a product calledall-purpose flour, the professional baker has available a wide variety of flourswith different qualities and characteristics. In order to select the proper flourfor each product and to handle each correctly, you should understand eachtype of flour and how it is milled.

HARD AND SOFT WHEATS

The characteristics of a flour depend on the variety of wheat from which it ismilled, the location in which the wheat is grown, and its growing conditions.Themost important thing for the baker to know is that some wheats are hard and someare soft.Hard wheats contain greater quantities of the proteins called glutenin andgliadin,which together form gluten when the flour is moistened and mixed.You will recall from chapter 1 that gluten development is one of the baker’smajor concerns when mixing doughs and batters. Strong flours—that is, floursfrom hard wheats with high protein content—are used primarily to make breadsand other yeast products.Weak flours—that is,flours from soft wheats with lowprotein content—are important in the production of cakes, cookies, andpastries. Protein content is discussed in more detail later in this section.

Six principal classes of wheat are grown in North America:

1. Hard red wintermThis wheat is grown in large quantities. It has amoderately high protein content and is used primarily for bread flours.The term red in the name refers to the dark color of the bran and husklayers of the wheat berry, not to the interior of the grain, which is white.

2. Hard red springmThis wheat has the highest protein content of NorthAmerican wheats and is an important component of strong bread flours.

3. Hard whitemThis high-protein wheat is grown in small quantities forbread flours.One interesting use for this wheat is for making whole wheatflours that are lighter in color and not as strong in flavor as whole wheatflours from red wheat.

4. Soft whitemThis is a low-protein wheat useful for pastries, cakes,crackers, and other products in which a softer wheat is required.

5. Soft red winter mThis is another low-protein wheat used for cake and

pastry flours.

6. Durum mThis is the hardest of the six wheat classes. It is used primarilyfor spaghetti and other macaroni products.Different varieties are grown in Europe.For example,four principal wheatstrains grown in France—Recital, Scipion, Soissons, and Textel—are softer—that is, lower in protein—than most North American varieties.

THE MILLING OF WHEAT

The wheat kernel consists of three main parts:

1. The bran is the hard outer covering of the kernel.It is present in whole wheatflour as tiny brown flakes, but it is removed in the milling of white flour.

2. The germ is the part of the kernel that becomes the new wheatplant if the kernel is sprouted. It has a high fat content that canquickly become rancid.Therefore, whole wheat flour containingthe germ has poor keeping qualities.

3. The endosperm is the starchy part of the kernel that remainswhen the bran and germ are removed.This is the portion of thewheat kernel that is milled into white flour. Depending on itssource, the wheat endosperm contains about 63 to 73%starch and 7 to 15% protein, plus small amounts of moisture,fat, sugar, and minerals.Until modern roller milling (described below) wasinvented, wheat was made into flour by grinding it betweentwo large stones.Once the grain was ground,it could be siftedto remove some of the bran. This sifting is called bolting.

Bolted flour is lighter in color and finer in texture than wholewheat flour, but of course some of the flavor and nutrientsare removed with the bran and germ. In specialty markets,one can still find stone-ground flour, especially unboltedwhole wheat flour, and other stone-ground meals, such ascornmeal.Modern milling of wheat into flour is accomplished by afairly complex and highly refined system that uses groovedsteel rollers. In what is called the break system, the rollersare set so that the space between them is slightly smaller thanthe width of the kernels, and the rollers rotate at differentspeeds.When the wheat is fed between them, the rollers flakeoff the bran layers and germ and crack the endosperm intocoarse pieces. Approximately 72% of the wheat kernel can beseparated as endosperm and milled into flour. The remaining 28%consists of bran (about 14%), germ (about 3%), and other outer portions called shorts (about 11%).To further understand how milling works, one must understandthat the outer parts of the endosperm—that is, the parts closest to the bran—are higher in protein than the inner parts.When the grain is cracked in the mill,the outer parts break into larger pieces and the inner parts into smaller pieces.In addition, the parts closest to the bran are darker in color than the creamywhite interior of the endosperm. By repeated sifting and breaking, differentgrades of flour can be obtained from one type of wheat. These grades aredescribed in a following section. But first, it is necessary to introduce otherterms and concepts related to flour milling.

Protein Content and Absorption

For a baker, the most important characteristic of flour is its protein content,because the protein content determines how much gluten can be developed.As we have said, the protein content depends primarily on the type of wheatused and its growing conditions. In other words, to make high-protein flour,you must start with high-protein wheat.Second, the milling process affects the protein content of a grade of flour.Remember that the outer portion ofthe endosperm is higher in protein thanthe inner portion. Thus, a flour made from just the inner portion of a highproteingrain will still be a high-protein flour, but it will be lower in proteinthan a flour made from the entire endosperm or from just the outer portions.The protein content of flours available to professional bakers is always

Kernel of wheat

Provided by the Wheat Foods Council

indicated. It may range from about 8% for cake flours to 12% to 13% for breadflour to 14% and up for high-gluten flour.Absorption refers to the amount of water a flour can take up and holdwhile being made into a simple dough, based on a predetermined standarddough consistency or stiffness. It is expressed as a percentage of the weight of flour. Thus, if the absorption ratio of a certain grade of flour is described as60%, this means 60 lb water combined with 100 lb flour would yield a doughof standard consistency. The absorption ratio of water is a function of theprotein content. The higher the protein content of the flour, the more waterit can absorb. Obviously, this is an important consideration for the baker. Shewill have to adjust the water in her bread formulas if she starts using flour of adifferent protein content.

Ash

When bakers are buying flour, they look at two important numbers in theflour’s description: the protein content and the ash content. The ash contentis an indication of the flour’s mineral content. It is determined by burning asample of flour in a controlled environment. The starch and protein, whenburned completely, turn to carbon dioxide gas, water vapor, and other gases,but the minerals do not burn and are left as ash. In general, the higher the ashcontent, the darker the flour. This is because the bran and the outer parts ofthe endosperm contain more minerals than thewhiter, inner portions of theendosperm. Similarly, whole-grain flour is higher in ash than white flour. In conventional baking, bakers like a relatively low ash content because it makeswhiter breads.Today, many artisan bakers of handmade breads look for darkerflour with a higher ash content because it makes breads with a more robust flavor of wheat.Ash content for wheat flours ranges from about 0.3% for white cake flour

to about 1.5% for whole wheat flour.

Extraction

The term extraction can be confusing because it is used in two different ways.As used in this discussion, extraction refers to the amount of flour milled froma given amount of grain. It is expressed as a percentage of the total amount ofgrain. For example, whole wheat flour is said to be 100% extraction because ifyou start with 100 lb grain, you end up with 100 lb whole wheat flour. As asecond example, if a grade of flour is described as 60% extraction, this meansit would take 100 kg whole grain to produce 60 kg of this grade of flour. Theremaining 40% is bran, germ,shorts, and darker, lower grades of flour.Consider a third example. Remember that the endosperm is about 72% ofthe whole grain. A flour milled from the entire endosperm, then, is 72%extraction. This type of flour is called straight flour, described in the nextsection. Here is the point at which the meaning of extraction can beconfusing. The word is occasionally used to refer to percentage of theendosperm rather than percentage of the whole grain. In other words,according to our first definition, straight flour is 72% extraction because 100 lbflour yields 72 lb straight flour. But according to the second definition, straightflour is called 100% extraction because 100 lb wheat endosperm yields 100 lbstraight flour.This may cause difficulty when you are reading other technicalliterature. In sum, you should be aware that the term has two uses.You willneed to determine from the context which definition is being used.In general, high-extraction flours have high ash and low-extraction flourshave low ash.The higher the extraction number, the darker the flour, in mostcases.

Aging and Bleaching

Freshly milled flour is not good for bread making. The gluten is somewhatweak and inelastic, and the color may be yellowish.When the flour is aged forseveral months, the oxygen in the air matures the proteins so they are strongerand more elastic, and it bleaches the color slightly.Aging flour is costly and haphazard, however, so millersmay add smallquantities of certain chemicals to accomplish the same results quickly.

Bromates, added to bread flours,mature the gluten but do not bleach the floura great deal. Chlorine is added to cake flour because not only is it a maturingagent but it also bleaches the flour to pure white.

Enzymes in Flour

A small but important component of wheat flour is a group of enzymes called

diastase.When water is combined with flour,these enzymes break down some

of the starch into sugars that can be acted upon by yeast. If a particular flour is

low in diastase, these enzymes can be added by the miller.

TYPES OF WHEAT FLOUR

The most important North American types of wheat flour can be summarizedas follows. No exact parallels can be made to European flours, which aredescribed later.

Straight flour Straight flour is flour made from the entire endosperm.In the break system of roller milling describedabove, after the bran, germ,and shorts are removed, the endosperm is cracked and sifted several timesto separate different grades of flour. If these grades, or streams, arerecombined,the result is straight flour.Because itcontains the darker partsof the grain as well as the whiter interior, straight flour is darker in color

than the next grade described below.Protein content of straight flour depends on the wheat, but if made

from hard wheat it may contain 13 to 15% protein.Patent flour Patent flour is milled from the inner part of the endosperm,which breaks into finer particles than the part nearer the bran.Patent flour

made from a hard wheat is a strong flour of excellent quality and light,creamy color. When a formula for a conventional bread calls for breadflour, patent flour is usually selected, although a straight flour could alsobe used if a slightly darker bread is acceptable or desired.The extraction rate of patent flour can be varied depending onspecific needs and on the quality of the wheat. Fancy patent, also called

Types of Flour

Flour Protein Ash

Straight flour 13–15% 0.4–0.45%

Patent flour 11–13% 0.35–0.55%

Clear flour 17% 0.7–0.8%

High-gluten flour 14% 0.5%

Cake flour 8% 0.3%

Pastry flour 9% 0.4–0.45%

All-purpose flour 11–11.5% 0.39–4.4%

extra short,is made from only the inner 40 to 60% of the endosperm.Short

patent may contain up to 80% of the endosperm, while long patent

consists of up to 95% of the endosperm.

Patent flours typically range from 11 to 13% protein and 0.35 to 0.55%

ash.

Clear flour The portion of the endosperm left after the patent flour is

removed is called clear flour.This flour comes from the outer parts of the

endosperm and thus is darker in color and higher in protein. Clear flour is

usually separated into more than one grade. First clear is a dark flour, tan

in color, that is often used in rye breads,where its dark color is not noticed

and its high protein content contributes much-needed gluten. Even

though it is dark, it is lighter in color than second clear, which is a lowgrade

flour not usually used in food production.

Clear flour may have a protein content as high as 17% and an ash

content of 0.7 to 0.8%.

High-gluten flour Flour that has an especially high protein content is

sometimes used in hard-crusted breads and in such specialty products as

pizza dough and bagels. It is also used to strengthen doughs made from

flours that contain little or no gluten. See, for example, the formula for

Chestnut Bread on page 117.

A typical high-gluten flour has 14% protein and 0.5% ash.

Cake flour Cake flour is a weak or low-gluten flour made from soft

wheat.It has a very soft,smooth texture and a pure white color. Cake flour

is used for cakes and other delicate baked goods that require low gluten

content.

Protein content of cake flour is approximately 8%, and ash content is

approximately 0.3%.

Pastry flour Pastry flour is also a weak or low-gluten flour, but it is

slightly stronger than cake flour. It has the creamy white color of patent

flour rather than the pure white of cake flour. Pastry flour is used for pie

doughs and for some cookies, biscuits, and muffins.

Pastry flour has a protein content of about 9% and an ash content of

about 0.4 to 0.45%.

European Flour Types

In much of Europe,a grading system based on the ash content is dominant.For

example, the grades T45 and T55 are white wheat flours with low ash for

breads and pastries.T65 includes high-gluten flours, and T80,T110, and T150

are whole wheat flours of increasing darkness. Other flours are included in

this grading system. For example,T170 is dark rye flour.

Bread flours from European wheats are generally lower in protein than

North American bread flours.Typically, they have a protein content of around

11.5%. Some North American mills have begun supplying similar flour for

artisan bread bakers seeking to imitate classic European breads.

Hand Test for Flour Strength

A typical small bakery keeps three white wheat flours on hand: cake flour,

pastry flour, and a bread flour such as patent.You should be able to identify

these three by sight and touch, because sooner or later someone will dump a

bag of flour into the wrong bin or label it incorrectly, and you will need to be

able to recognize the problem.

Bread flour feels slightly coarse when rubbed between the fingers. If

squeezed into a lump in the hand, it falls apart as soon as the hand is

opened. Its color is creamy white.

Cake flour feels very smooth and fine. It stays in a lump when squeezed

in the hand. Its color is pure white.

Pastry flour feels smooth and fine like cake flour and can also be

squeezed into a lump.However, it has the creamy color of bread flour, not

the pure white color of cake flour.

OTHER WHEAT FLOURS

All-purpose flour, seen in retail markets, is not often found in bakeshops.

This flour is formulated to be slightly weaker than bread flour so it can be

used for pastries as well. A professional baker,however,prefers to use flours

formulated for specific purposes, because these give the best results. Allpurpose

flour has a protein content of about 11 to 11.5%.

Self-rising flour is a white flour to which baking powder and,

sometimes, salt has been added. Its advantage is that the baking powder is

blended in uniformly. However, its use is limited by two factors. First,

different formulas call for different proportions of baking powder. No

single blend is right for all purposes. Second, baking powder loses its

aerating or leavening power with time,so the quality of baked goods made

from this flour can fluctuate.

Whole wheat flour is made by grinding the entire wheat kernel,

including the bran and germ.The germ, as you have learned, is high in fat,

which can become rancid, so whole wheat flour does not keep as well as

white flour.

Because it is made from wheat, whole wheat flour contains glutenforming

proteins,so it can be used alone in bread making.(Protein content

is typically 12 to 13%.) However, bread made with 100% whole wheat

flour is heavier than white bread because the gluten strands are cut by the

sharp edges of the bran flakes. Also, the fat from the wheat germ may

contribute to the shortening action.This is one reason why most whole

wheat breads are strengthened with white flour. Another reason is that the

flavor of 100% whole wheat is stronger than many people care for,and the

lighter flavor imparted by a blend of flours is often preferred by

customers.

Bran flour is flour to which bran flakes have been added.The bran may

be coarse or fine, depending on specifications.

OTHER FLOURS, MEALS,

AND STARCHES

RYE FLOUR

Next to white and whole wheat, rye is the most popular flour for bread

making. Although rye flour contains some proteins, these do not form gluten.

Therefore, breads made with 100% rye flour are heavy and dense.To make a

lighter rye loaf, it is necessary to use a mixture of rye and hard wheat flours.

Typical formulas call for 25 to 40% rye flour and 60 to 75% hard wheat flour.

Rye flour is milled much like wheat flour.The lightest rye flours, from the

inner part of the kernel, have a low extraction rate, corresponding to patent

flour. The following grades and types are generally available: Rye flour

Light rye The lightest is nearly white. It has a very fine texture and a

high percentage of starch, with little protein.

Medium rye This is a straight flour, milled from the whole rye grain

after the bran is removed.Thus, it is darker than light rye and has a higher

protein content.

Dark rye Like clear flour milled from wheat, dark rye comes from the

part of the rye grain closest to the bran.Thus, it is darker than other rye

flours and has a lower percentage of fine starch particles.

Rye meal or pumpernickel flour Rye meal is a dark, coarse meal

made from the entire rye grain, including the bran. It looks somewhat like

oatmeal. Rye meal is used for pumpernickel bread and similar specialty

products.

Rye blend This is a mixture of rye flour (generally about 25 to 40%) and

a strong wheat flour, such as clear flour.

MISCELLANEOUS FLOURS

AND MEALS

Products milled from other grains are occasionally used to add variety to baked

goods. These include cornmeal, rice flour, buckwheat flour, soy flour, potato

flour, oat flour, and barley flour.The term meal is used for milled products that

are not as finely ground as flour.

All of these products are normally used in combination with wheat flour

because they do not form gluten.

STARCHES

In addition to flours, other starch products are used in the bakeshop. Unlike

flour, they are used primarily to thicken puddings, pie fillings, and similar

products.The most important starches in dessert production are as follows:

1. Cornstarch has a special property that makes it valuable for certain

purposes. Products thickened with cornstarch set up almost like gelatin

when cooled.For this reason,cornstarch is used to thicken cream pies and

other products that must hold their shape.

2. Waxy maize and other modified starches also have valuable

properties. Because they do not break down when frozen, they are used

for products that are to be frozen. Also, they are very clear when cooked

and give a brilliant, clear appearance to fruit pie fillings.

Waxy maize does not set up firm like cornstarch but rather makes a

soft paste that has the same consistency hot and cold. Thus, it is not

suitable for cream pie fillings.

3. Instant starches are precooked or pregelatinized so they thicken cold

liquids without further cooking.They are useful when heat will damage

the flavor of the product, as in fresh fruit glazes, such as strawberry.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

PANS, CONTAINERS,
AND MOLDS
Many of the pots and pans found in the hot kitchen are also used in the bakeshop.For example,saucepans are used to boil syrups and to cook creams and fillings. This section, however, concentrates on specialty containers and molds for the bakery. The following is a representative sample of the more important of these, in alphabetical order. Molds are of two types: those for baking dough or batter items, and those for giving shape to refrigerated items
such as mousses and bombes. Other containers, such as mixing bowls, are included in the list.
1. Baba mold.
A small thimble-shaped mold for making babas
2. Banneton.
A bentwood basket, available in various shapes, for holding and giving shape to
certain hearth bread doughs as they proof.
3. Barquette.
A small boat-shaped mold for petits fours and small tartlets.
4. Bombe mold.
A dome-shaped mold for frozen desserts
5. Brioche mold.
A flared pan with fluted sides for making brioche
6. Cake pans.
While most cake pans are round,other shapes,such as hearts, are available for specialty cakes. Cake pans come in many sizes.
7. Cake ring.
See Charlotte ring.
8. Charlotte mold.
The classic charlotte mold is round, tapered, and flat-bottomed, with two handles near the top rim. Except for the Apple Charlotte ,which is baked in this mold, classic charlottes are made with a Bavarian cream filling and are refrigerated until set, not baked.
9. Charlotte ring.
Also called cake rings, these are stainless-steel rings in various diameters and heights, most often used for making molded desserts and for shaping and holding desserts made up of layers of cake, pastry, and fillings. The rings are removed after the fillings have set and before serving or display.
10. Chocolate molds.
Used for all sorts of chocolate work, from large display pieces to bite-size truffles.
11. Cornstick pan.
Special baking pan with indentations shaped like small ears of corn. Used for baking cornbread items.
12. Flexipan.
This is the brand name for a line of nonstick baking pans made of a flexible silicone material. Flexipans are available in dozens of shapes and sizes to make a wide range of products, from muffins to petits fours.
13. Hotel pan.
A rectangular pan,usually made of stainless steel.Designed to hold foods in service counters. Also used for baking and steaming, and often used for baked items such as bread pudding.The standard size is 10 , 20 in. (325 ,530 mm).Fractions of this size (1⁄2,1⁄3,and so on) are also available.Standard depth is 21⁄2 in.(65 mm),but deeper pans are also available.
14. Loaf pan.
A rectangular pan, usually with slightly flared sides, used for baking loaf breads. Loaf pans can also be used for molding refrigerated and frozen desserts.
Pullman pan
the Pullman pan, which has straight, not flared sides, and a removable lid, for
baking Pullman loaves of bread
15. Madeleine pan.
A special baking pan with shell-shaped indentations, used for baking madeleines
16. Mixing bowls.
The most useful mixing bowls are made of stainless steel and have round bottoms.They are used for general mixing and whipping.The round construction enables the whip to reach all areas for thorough mixing or whipping.
17. Muffin pan.
Metal baking pan with cup-shaped indentations for baking muffins.The available pans make muffins of several sizes.
18. Petit four molds.
Tiny metal molds in a variety of shapes, used for baking an assortment of little tartlets, financiers and other petits fours.
19. Savarin mold.
Small ring-shaped or doughnut-shaped metal molds for baking savarins
20. Sheet pan.
A shallow, rectangular pan (1 in./25 mm deep) for baking sheet cakes, cookies,rolls,and other baked goods.A full sheet pan measures 18 and 26 in. (46 and 66 cm). Half-sheet pans are 13 and 18 in. (33 and 46 cm). Perforated sheet pans are the same size, but the bottom is full of tiny holes.These allow even baking and browning of breads and rolls because the holes allow the oven’s hot air to circulate freely around the items as they bake.
21. Springform pan.
A cake pan with a removable bottom. Used primarily for baking cheesecake and other items that are too delicate to be easily removed from standard cake pans.
22. Tart pan.
A shallow (1 in./2.5 cm deep) metal pan, usually with fluted sides, used for baking tarts. Standard pans are round, but square and rectangular pans are also available.They may be made in one piece or with a removable bottom to make it easier to remove the baked tart from the pan. Tart pans make multi-serving pastries, but smaller tartlet pans make single-portion tartlets. Like tart pans, these come in a variety of sizes.The smallest of them usually are in one piece, not with removable bottoms.
23. Tube pan.
A deep cake pan with a tube in the center. The tube promotes even baking of angel food cakes
and similar items.

HAND TOOLS

1. Blow torch.
A tool used for caramelizing and controlled browning of various pastry items and for caramelizing the sugar topping of crème brûlée. Butane or propane is used as fuel, depending on the model.
2. Bowl knife.
Also called a straight spatula or palette knife, this tool has a long, flexible blade with a rounded end. Used mostly for spreading icing on cakes and for mixing and bowl scraping. A variant with an angled blade is called an offset spatula.The bent blade allows spreading and smoothing batters and fillings inside pans.
3. Brushes.
Pastry brushes are used to brush items with egg wash, glaze, and so on. Larger bench brushes are used to brush flour from tabletops and from the surface of dough. Oven brushes are used to clean excess flour from deck ovens.
4. Comb, icing.
A small plastic tool, usually triangular, with serrated edges in various patterns, for decorating icings and other pastry and decorative items.
5. Cutters.
Many types of cutters are used in the pastry department. Cookie cutters and pastry cutters, available in many shapes, cut decorative shapes by stamping them from rolled-out dough. Roller cutters have a handle on each end, like a rolling pin, and are rolled over rolled-out dough to cut repetitive shapes quickly and efficiently, with minimal loss of dough to trimmings and scraps. Roller cutters are often used for croissants
6. Pastry bag.
A cone-shaped cloth or plastic bag with an open end that can be fitted with metal or plastic tubes or tips of various shapes and sizes. Used for shaping and decorating with items such as icing and for filling certain kinds of pastries and other items, such as éclairs, and for portioning
creams,fillings, and doughs.
7. Peel.
A thin, flat board with a long handle, used for inserting and removing hearth breads from deck ovens.
8. Roller docker.
A tool that pierces holes in rolled-out dough to prevent bubbling during baking.
It consists of a handle attached to a rotating tube fitted with rows of spikes.
9. Rolling pins.
Many types of rolling pins are used in the bakeshop for rolling out doughs. Perhaps the most versatile pin, used for most general rolling tasks, is simply a solid hardwood rod, about 2 in. (5 cm) thick and 20 in. (50 cm) long. A French rolling pin is about 2 in. (5 cm) thick at the center and tapered toward the ends. It is useful for rolling pie doughs and other doughs that
must be rolled to a circular shape. For large quantities or heavy work, a heavy ball-bearing pin may be used.This pin is 3–4 in. (8–10 cm) thick and has a swiveling rod inserted through the center, with a handle at each end. Textured rolling pins are used to emboss designs,such as a basketweave pattern, in sheets of marzipan and pastillage.
10. Scrapers.
A bench scraper, also called a dough scraper, is a small rectangle of stainless steel with a handle along one of the long edges. It is used for cutting and portioning dough and for scraping tabletops. A bowl scraper is a piece of plastic about the same size but with one curved edge and no handle. It is used for scraping out the contents of mixing bowls.
11. Sieve.
A round metal screen supported in a stainless-steel hoop frame. It is used for sifting flour and other dry ingredients. Also called a drum sieve or tamis (pronounced tah-mee).
12. Strainer.
A round-bottomed, cup-shaped tool made of screen mesh or perforated metal, with a handle on one side. Used for separating solids from liquids, such as draining the juice from fruit. Screen-mesh
strainers can also be used for sifting dry ingredients, like a sieve.
13. Turntable.
A round, flat disk that swivels freely on a pedestal base. Used for holding cakes for decorating.
14. Whip.
Loops of stainless-steel wire fastened to a handle. Whips with a few stiff wires are used for mixing and blending, and whips with many flexible wires are used for whipping foams, such as whipped cream and egg foams. Also called whisk.

MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS
AND EQUIPMENT

1. Acetate.
A type of clear plastic. Acetate strips are used for lining charlotte molds (see above) in the production of certain cakes, pastries, and refrigerated desserts.For retail display, the strips can be left on after the charlotte rings are removed to support the dessert while displaying the layers.
2. Couche.
A sheet of heavy linen or canvas, used for supporting certain breads, such as baguettes, as they are proofed.The cloth is placed on a sheet pan and pleated to form troughs to hold the loaves so they can proof without spreading.
3. Hydrometer.
Also called a sugar densimeter, saccharometer, and Baumé hydrometer. Used to test the density of sugar syrups. (Sometimes called a thermometer, but this is inaccurate because it doesn’t measure temperature.) It is a glass tube that is weighted at one end. It is floated in the solution to be tested, and because it floats higher in denser solutions, the density can be read off the scale marked along the length of the tube, at the point where the surface of the liquid meets the tube.
4. Ice cream freezer.
Machine for churning and freezing ice creams and sorbets. It consists of a large refrigerated canister or container with a paddle, called a dasher, that rotates inside.The ice cream or sorbet mix freezes against the walls of the canister but is continually scraped off the walls and mixed to prevent the formation of ice crystals. Unlike home models, which depend on a salted ice water mixture to create freezing temperatures, commercial ice cream freezers contain a built-in electrically operated freezing unit.
5. Marble.
A stone material used for tabletop or work surfaces in pastry shops.The hard, cool surface of marble is ideal for working with various pastry doughs as well as for tempering chocolate and for some decorative work such as pastillage. Marble slabs may be installed on top of under-thecounter refrigerated storage boxes. This keeps the marble cool even in warm weather.
6. Parchment paper.
Also called baking paper or silicone paper. Treated nonstick sheets of paper, sized to fit standard sheet pans.When used to line pans, they eliminate the need for greasing the pans. Also used to make piping cones for decorative work.
7. Rack, cooling.
Wire racks used to hold baked goods while cooling. They allow air circulation around the items.
8. Silicone mat.
Flexible fiberglass mat coated with nonstick silicone, used to line baking sheets. Available to fit full and half-size sheet pans. Also used in sugar work.They withstand temperatures up to about 480°F (250°C) and can be reused indefinitely if well cared for and not folded or creased. There are several manufacturers of silicone mats, but they are often known by one brand name, Silpat.
9. Thermometers.
Thermometers have many uses in the bakery, and there are many types of specialized thermometers. The sugar thermometer, also called a candy thermometer, is one of the most important. It is used for measuring the temperature, and hence the concentration, of boiling sugar syrups .The chocolate thermometer is used for tempering chocolate.Other thermometers measure the temperature of bread doughs, frying fat, and the interiors of ovens, refrigerators, and freezers (to check the accuracy of the equipment’s thermostat).

Some Extra Knowledge...

MIXING AND GLUTEN
DEVELOPMENT

Gluten is a substance made up of proteins present in wheat flour. It gives structure and strength to baked goods. In order for gluten to be developed, the proteins must first absorb water. Then,as the dough or batter is mixed or kneaded,the gluten forms long,elastic strands. As the dough or batter is leavened, these strands capture the gases in tiny pockets or cells, and we say the product rises. When proteins are heated, they coagulate.This means they become firm or solidify.You are familiar with this process in the case of eggs, which are liquid when raw but firm when cooked. This process is also important in baking.When dough or batter is baked, the gluten, like all proteins,coagulates or solidifies and gives structure to the product.

CONTROLLING GLUTEN

Flour is mostly starch, as you know, but it is the protein or gluten content, not the starch, that concerns the baker most. Gluten proteins are needed to give structure to baked goods. Bakers must be able to control the gluten, however. For example, we want French bread to be firm and chewy, which requires much gluten. On the other hand,we want cakes to be tender,which means we want very little gluten development. Ingredient proportions and mixing methods are determined, in part, by how they affect the development of gluten.The baker has several methods for adjusting gluten development:
1. Selection of flours Wheat flours are classified as strong or weak, depending on their protein content. Strong flours come from hard wheat and have a high protein content. Weak flours come from soft wheat and have a low protein content. Thus, we use strong flours for breads and weak flours for cakes. Only wheat flour develops enough gluten to make bread.To make bread from rye or other grains, the formula must be balanced with some highgluten flour, or the bread will be heavy.
2. Shortening Any fat used in baking is called a shortening because it shortens gluten strands. It does this by surrounding the particles and lubricating them so they do not stick together.Thus, fats are tenderizers.

A cookie or pastry that is very crumbly, which is due to high fat content and little gluten development, is said to be short. You can see why French bread has little or no fat, while cakes contain a great deal.
3. Liquid Because gluten proteins must absorb water before they can be developed, the amount of water in a formula can affect toughness or tenderness. Pie crusts and crisp cookies, for instance, are made with very little liquid in order to keep them tender.
4. Mixing methods In general, the more a dough or batter is mixed, the more the gluten develops.Thus, bread doughs are mixed or kneaded for a long time to develop the gluten. Pie crusts, muffins, and other products that must be tender are mixed for a short time. It is possible to overmix bread dough,however. Gluten strands will stretch only so far. They will break if the dough is overmixed.

THE BAKING PROCESS

The changes to a dough or batter as it bakes are basically the same in all baked products, from breads to cookies and cakes. You should know what these changes are so you can learn how to control them. The stages in the baking process are as follows:
1. Formation and expansion of gases The gases primarily responsible for leavening baked goods are carbon dioxide, which is released by the action of yeast and by baking powder and baking soda; air, which is incorporated into doughs and batters during mixing; and steam, which is
formed during baking. Some gases—such as carbon dioxide in proofed bread dough and air in sponge cake batters—are already present in the dough. As they are heated, the gases expand and leaven the product. Some gases are not formed until heat is applied.Yeast and baking powder form gases rapidly when first placed in the oven. Steam is also formed as the moisture of the dough is heated. Leavening agents are discussed in greater detail in the next chapter.
2. Trapping of the gases in air cells As the gases are formed and expand,they are trapped in a stretchable network formed by the proteins in the dough.These proteins are primarily gluten and sometimes egg protein. Without gluten or egg protein, most of the gases would escape, and the product would be poorly leavened.Breads without enough gluten are heavy.
3. Gelatinization of starches The starches absorb moisture,expand,and become firmer. This contributes to structure. Gelatinization of starches begins at about 140°F (60°C).
4. Coagulation of proteins Like all proteins, gluten and egg proteins coagulate or solidify when they reach high enough temperatures. This process gives most of the structure to baked goods. Coagulation begins when the temperature of the dough reaches about 165°F (74°C). Correct baking temperature is important. If the temperature is too high, coagulation starts too soon, before the expansion of gases reaches its peak. The resulting product has poor volume or a split crust. If the temperature is too low, the proteins do not coagulate soon enough, and
the product may collapse.
5. Evaporation of some of the water This takes place throughout the baking process. If a baked product of a specific weight is required, allowance must be made for moisture loss when scaling the dough. For example, to get a 1-lb loaf of baked bread, it is necessary to scale about 18 oz dough.The percentage of weight loss varies greatly, depending on such factors as proportion of surface area to volume, baking time, and whether the item is baked in a pan or directly on the oven hearth.
6. Melting of shortenings Different shortenings melt and release trapped gases at different temperatures, so the proper shortening should be selected for each product.
7. Crust formation and browning A crust is formed as water evaporates from the surface and leaves it dry. Browning occurs when sugars caramelize and starches and sugars undergo certain chemical changes caused by heat. This contributes to flavor. Milk, sugar, and egg increase browning.

STALING

Staling is the change in texture and aroma of baked goods due to a change of structure and a loss of moisture by the starch granules. Stale baked goods have lost their fresh-baked aroma and are firmer, drier, and more crumbly than fresh products. Prevention of staling is a major concern of the baker, because most baked goods lose quality rapidly. Staling begins almost as soon as the baked items are taken from the oven. There are, apparently, two factors in staling. The first is loss of moisture, or drying.This is apparent, for example,when a slice of fresh bread is left exposed to air. It soon becomes dry to the touch. The second factor is a chemical change in the structure of the starch.This process, called starch retrogradation, occurs even when little or no moisture is lost.This means that even a well-wrapped loaf of bread will eventually stale. Chemical staling is rapid at refrigerator temperatures, but it nearly stops at freezer temperatures. Thus, bread should not be stored in the refrigerator. It should be left at room temperature for short-term storage or frozen for longterm storage.
Chemical staling, if it is not too great, can be partially reversed by heating. Breads, muffins, and coffee cakes, for example, are frequently refreshed by placing them briefly in an oven. Remember, however, that this also results in more loss of moisture,so the items should be reheated only just before they are to be served. Loss of crispness is caused by absorption of moisture, so, in a sense, it is the opposite of staling.The crusts of hard-crusted breads absorb moisture from the crumb and become soft and leathery. Reheating these products to refresh them not only reverses chemical staling of the crumb but also recrisps the crusts. Loss of crispness is also a problem with low-moisture products such as cookies and pie crusts. The problem is usually solved by proper storage in airtight wraps or containers to protect the products from moisture in the air. Prebaked pie shells should be filled as close to service time as possible. In addition to refreshing baked goods in the oven, three main techniques are used to slow staling:
1. Protecting the product from air Two examples of protecting baked goods are wrapping bread in plastic and covering cakes with icing, especially icing that is thick and rich in fat. Hard-crusted breads, which stale very rapidly, should not be wrapped, or the crusts will quickly become soft and leathery. These bread products should always be served very fresh.
2. Adding moisture retainers to the formula Fats and sugars are good moisture retainers, so products high in these ingredients keep best. Some of the best French bread has no fat at all, so it must be served within hours of baking or it will begin to stale. For longer keeping, bakers often add a very small amount of fat and/or sugar to the formula.
3. Freezing Baked goods frozen before they become stale maintain quality for longer periods. For best results, freeze soon after baking in a blast freezer at −40°F (−40°C), and maintain at or below 0°F (−18°C) until ready to thaw. Breads should be served very quickly after thawing. Frozen breads may be reheated with excellent results if they are to be served immediately. Refrigeration, on the other hand, speeds staling. Only baked goods that could become health hazards, such as those with cream fillings, are refrigerated.

FORMULAS AND MEASUREMENT

Bakers generally talk about formulas rather than recipes. If this sounds to you more like a chemistry lab than a food production facility, it is with good reason. The bakeshop is very much like a chemistry laboratory, both in the scientific accuracy of the procedures and in the complex reactions that take place during mixing and baking.

MEASUREMENT
Ingredients are almost always weighed in the bakeshop, rather than measured by volume, because measurement by weight is more accurate. Accuracy of measurement, as we have said, is essential in the bakeshop. Unlike home baking recipes, a professional baker’s formula will not call for 6 cups flour, for example.

To demonstrate to yourself the importance of weighing rather than measuring by volume, measure a cup of flour in two ways:
(a) Sift some flour and lightly spoon it into a dry measure. Level the top and weigh the flour.
(b) Scoop some unsifted flour into the same measure and pack it lightly. Level the
top and weigh the flour. Note the difference.No wonder home recipes can be so inconsistent!

The baker’s term for weighing ingredients is scaling.
The following ingredients, and only these ingredients, may sometimes be measured by volume, at the ratio of 1 pint per pound or 1 liter per kilogram:
• Water • Milk • Eggs
Volume measure is often used when scaling water for small or mediumsized batches of bread. Results are generally good. However, whenever accuracy is critical, it is better to weigh.This is because a pint of water actually weighs slightly more than a pound, or approximately 16.7 oz. (This figure varies with the temperature of the water.)
For convenience, volume measures of liquids are frequently used when products other than baked flour goods—such as sauces, syrups, puddings, and custards—are being made.

Units of Measure
The system of measurement used in the United States is very complicated. Even those who have used the system all their lives sometimes have trouble remembering things like how many fluid ounces are in a quart and how many feet are in a mile.

The Metric System
The United States is the only major country that uses the complex system of measurement we have just described. Other countries use a much simpler system called the metric system.

Abbreviations of U.S. Units of Measure Used
pound(lb)
ounce (oz)
gallon (gal)
quart (qt)
pint (pt)
fluid ounce( fl oz)
tablespoon (tbsp)
teaspoon (tsp)
inch (in)
foot(ft)

In the metric system, there is one basic unit for each type of measurement:
The gram is the basic unit of weight.
The liter is the basic unit of volume.
The meter is the basic unit of length.
The degree Celsius is the basic unit of temperature.
Larger or smaller units are simply made by multiplying or dividing by 10, 100,
1000, and so on.These divisions are expressed by prefixes. The ones you need
to know are:
kilo- = 1000
deci- = 1⁄10 or 0.1
centi- = 1⁄100 or 0.01
milli- = 1⁄1000 or 0.001

Formulas and Measurement
Metric Units
Basic units
Quantity Unit Abbreviation
weight gram g
volume liter L
length meter m
temperature degree Celsius °C
Divisions and multiples
Prefix/Example Meaning Abbreviation
kilo- 1000 k
kilogram 1000 grams kg
deci- 1⁄10 d
deciliter 0.1 liter dL
centi- 1⁄100 c
centimeter 0.01 meter cm
milli- 1⁄1000 m
millimeter 0.001 meter mm


Converting to Metric
Most people think the metric system is much harder to learn than it really is. This is because they think about metric units in terms of U.S. units. They read that there are 28.35 grams in an ounce and are immediately convinced that they will never be able to learn metrics. Do not worry about being able to convert U.S. units into metric units and vice versa. This is a very important point to remember, especially if you think that the metric system might be hard to learn. The reason for this is simple.You will usually be working in either one system or the other.You will rarely, if ever, have to convert from one to the other. (An exception might be if you have equipment based on one system and you want to use a formula written in the other.) Many people today own imported cars and repair them with metric tools without ever worrying about how many millimeters are in an inch. Similarly, if and when American bakeshops and kitchens change to the metric system, American cooks and bakers will use scales that measure in grams and kilograms, volume measures that measure in liters and deciliters, and thermometers that measure in degrees Celsius, and they will use formulas that indicate these units.They will not have to worry about how many grams are in an ounce. To become accustomed to working in metric units, it is helpful to have a feel for how large the units are.The following rough equivalents may be used to help you visualize metric units. They are not exact conversion factors.
A kilogram is slightly more than 2 lb.
A gram is about 1⁄30 oz. A half teaspoon of flour weighs a little less than a
gram.
A liter is slightly more than a quart.
A deciliter is slightly less than a half cup.
A centiliter is about 2 tsp.
A meter is slightly more than 3 ft.
A centimeter is about 3⁄8 in.
0°C is the freezing point of water (32°F).
100°C is the boiling point of water (212°F).
An increase or decrease of 1 degree Celsius is equivalent to about 2
degrees Fahrenheit.

Metric Formulas and Recipes
American industry will probably adopt the metric system someday.Many recipe writers are already eager to get a head start and are printing metric equivalents. As a result, you will see recipes calling for 454 g flour, 28.35 g butter, or a baking temperature of 191°C.No wonder people are afraid of the metric system! Kitchens in metric countries do not work with such impractical numbers, any more than we normally use figures like 1 lb 11⁄4 oz flour, 2.19 oz butter, or a baking temperature of 348°F.That would defeat the whole purpose of the metric system,which is to be simple and practical. If you have a chance to look at a French cookbook, you will see nice, round numbers such as 1 kg, 200 g, and 4 dL.
The metric measures in the formulas in this book are NOT equivalent to the U.S. measures given alongside them.You should think of the metric portion of the formulas as separate formulas with yields that are close to but not the same as the yields of the U.S. formulas. To give exact equivalents would require using awkward, impractical numbers. If you have metric equipment,use the metric units, and if you have U.S.equipment,use the U.S. units.You should rarely have to worry about converting between the two. For the most part, the total yield of the metric formulas in this book is close to the yield of the U.S. formulas while keeping the ingredient proportions the same. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to keep the proportions exactly the same because the U.S. system is not decimal-based like the metric system. In some cases, the metric quantities produce slightly different results due to the varying proportions, but these differences are usually extremely small.

The principle of using a baker’s scale is simple: The scale must balance before setting the weights, and it must balance again after scaling. The following procedure applies to the most commonly used type of baker’s scale.
1. Set the scale scoop or other container on the left side of the scale.
2. Balance the scale by placing counterweights on the right side
and/or by adjusting the ounce weight on the horizontal bar.
3. Set the scale for the desired weight by placing weights on the right side
and/or by moving the ounce weight.
For example, to set the scale for 1 lb 8 oz, place a 1-lb weight on the right side and
move the ounce weight to the right 8 oz. If the ounce weight is already over 8 oz, so
that you cannot move it another 8, add 2 lb to the right side of the scale and subtract 8
ounces by moving the ounce weight 8 places to the left. The result is still 1 lb 8 oz.
4. Add the ingredient being scaled to the left side until the scale balances.

MEASURING BY WEIGHT
A good balance scale should be accurate to 1⁄4 oz (0.25 oz) or, if metric, to 5 g. Dry ingredients weighing less than 1⁄4 oz can be scaled by physically dividing larger quantities into equal portions. For example, to scale 1⁄16 oz
(0.06 oz),first weigh out 1⁄4 oz,then divide this into four equal piles using a small knife.
For fine pastry work, a small battery-operated digital scale is often more useful than a large balance scale. A good digital scale is relatively inexpensive. It can instantly measure quantities to the nearest 1⁄8 oz or the nearest 2 g. Most digital scales have a zero or tare button that sets the indicated weight to zero. For example, you may set a container on the scale, set the weight to zero, add the desired quantity of the first ingredient, again set the weight to zero, add the second ingredient, and so on. This speeds the weighing of dry ingredients that are to be sifted together, for example.However, remember that careful weighing on a good scale is more accurate.
British bakers have a convenient method for measuring baking powder when small quantities are needed.They use a mixture called scone flour. To make a pound of scone flour, combine 15 oz flour and 1 oz baking powder; sift together three times.One ounce (1⁄16 lb) scone flour thus contains 1⁄16 (0.06 oz) baking powder. For each 1⁄16 oz baking powder you need in a formula, substitute 1 oz scone flour for 1 oz of the flour called for in the formula. In order to make formula conversions and calculations easier, fractions of ounces that appear in the ingredient tables of the formulas in this book are written as decimals.Thus,11⁄ 2 oz is written as 1.5 oz and 1⁄4 oz is written as 0.25 oz.

BAKER’S PERCENTAGES
Bakers use a simple but versatile system of percentages for expressing their formulas. Baker’s percentages express the amount of each ingredient used as a percentage of the amount of flour used. To put it differently, the percentage of each ingredient is its total weight divided by the weight of the flour,multiplied by 100%, or:
100% = % of ingredient
Thus, flour is always 100%. If two kinds of flour are used, their total is 100%. Any ingredient that weighs the same as the amount of flour used is also given as 100%.The cake formula ingredients listed on page 11 illustrate how these percentages are used.Check the figures with the above equation to make sure you understand them. Please remember that these numbers do not refer to the percentage of the total yield.They are simply a way of expressing ingredient proportions. The total yield of these percentage numbers will always be greater than 100%. The advantages of using baker’s percentages is that the formula is easily adapted for any yield, and single ingredients may be varied and other ingredients added without changing the whole formulation. For example, you can add raisins to a muffin mix formula while keeping the percentages of all the other ingredients the same. Clearly, a percentage system based on the weight of flour can be used only when flour is a major ingredient, as in breads,cakes,and cookies.However, this principle can be used in other formulas as well by selecting a major ingredient and establishing it as 100%. In this book, whenever an ingredient other than flour is used as the base of 100%.

FORMULA YIELDS

Procedure for Calculating the Weight of an Ingredient
When the Weight of Flour Is Known
1. Change the ingredient percentage to decimal form by moving the decimal point 2 places to the left.
2. Multiply the weight of the flour by this decimal figure to get the weight of the ingredient.
Example: A formula calls for 20% sugar and you are using 10 lb of flour. How much sugar do you need?
20% = 0.20
10 lb × 0.20 = 2 lb sugar
Note: In the U.S. system, weights must normally be expressed all in one unit, either ounces or pounds, in order for the calculations to
work. Unless quantities are very large, it is usually easiest to express weights in ounces.
Example: Determine 50% of 1 lb 8 oz.
1 lb 8 oz = 24 oz
0.50 × 24 oz = 12 oz
Example (metric): A formula calls for 20% sugar and you are using 5000 g (5 kg) flour. How much sugar do you need?
20% = 0.20
5000 g × 0.20 = 1000 g sugar
Ingredients U.S. Weight Metric Weight %
Cake flour 5 lb 2500 g 100
Sugar 5 lb 2500 g 100
Baking powder 4 oz 125 g 5
Salt 2 oz 63 g 2.5
Emulsified shortening 2 lb 8 oz 1250 g 50
Skim milk 3 lb 1500 g 60
Egg whites 3 lb 1500 g 60
Total weight: 18 lb 14 oz 9438 g 377.5%

Procedure for Converting a Formula to a New Yield
1. Change the total percentage to decimal form by moving the decimal point 2 places to the left.
2. Divide the desired yield by this decimal figure to get the weight of flour needed.
3. If necessary, round off this number to the next highest figure. This will allow for losses in mixing, makeup, and panning, and it will
make calculations easier.
4. Use the weight of flour and remaining ingredient percentages to calculate the weights of the other ingredients, as in the previous
procedure.
Example: In the sample cake formula in the table, how much flour is needed if you require 6 lb (or 3000 g) cake batter?
377.5% = 3.775
6 lb = 96 oz
96 oz/3.775 = 25.43 oz or, rounded off, 26 oz (1 lb 10 oz)
3000 g/3.775 = 794.7 g or, rounded off, 800 g


SELECTION OF INGREDIENTS
In addition to measuring, there is another basic rule of accuracy in the
bakeshop: Use the exact ingredients specified.
As you will learn in the next chapter, different flours, shortenings, and other
ingredients do not function alike. Bakers’ formulas are balanced for specific
ingredients.For example, do not substitute bread flour for pastry flour or regular
shortening for emulsified shortening.They won’t work the same way.
Occasionally, a substitution may be made, such as active dry yeast for
compressed yeast but not without adjusting the quantities and
rebalancing the formula.

Types of Chocolate

Cacaoaka Cacao Nibs, Raw Cacao, Roasted Cacao, Ground Cacao
This is the cacao bean, minus the shell, and nothing else. You can buy cacao raw or roasted. Whole cacao is the whole bean, cacao nibs are crunched up pieces of bean, and ground cacao is powdered. Really the healthiest form of chocolate there is, cacao can sometimes be quite bitter.
Chocolate Liquor
This is the basis of all types of chocolate, formed by grinding cacao nibs into a smooth, liquid paste. Nothing is added, and it is not alcoholic. It naturally contains about 53% cocoa butter (fat).
Unsweetened Chocolateaka Chocolate, Baking Chocolate, Pure Chocolate, Bitter Chocolate
Chocolate liquor that has been allowed to cool and harden. It is used for baking and to make other types of chocolate. Many bakers prefer this type of chocolate for baking because they have more control over the flavor and sweetness.

Bittersweet Chocolateaka Semisweet Chocolate, Dark Chocolate
Contains at least 35% chocolate liquor, plus cocoa butter and sugar in varying amounts. There is no technical difference between bittersweet and semisweet types of chocolate, and they are often referred to as "dark." Note that there is such a thing as "bittersweet (or semisweet) baking chocolate," which is sweetened cocoa liquor without the added cocoa butter.
Sweet Chocolate
Contains at least 15% chocolate liquor, plus cocoa butter and sugar in varying amounts. Some people mistakenly refer to this as "bittersweet."
Milk Chocolate
Contains at least 10% chocolate liquor, plus cocoa butter and sugar in varying amounts, and at least 12% milk (milk, cream, milk powder, etc).
White Chocolate
White chocolate is not technically one of the types of chocolate because it does not contain any chocolate liquor. It must contain at least 20% cocoa butter and 14% milk, plus sugar in varying amounts.
Cocoaaka Cocoa Powder, Unsweetened Cocoa Powder, Unsweetened Cocoa
Is made by slamming chocolate liquor with a hydraulic press to expel the fat, i.e. the cocoa butter. What's left is allowed to harden, and then it is crushed into a powder. There is roughly 10-20% fat remaining in the powder. Cocoa powder is often used in low fat cooking because it retains the chocolate flavor but has much of the fat removed.
"Dutched" cocoa is formed by washing cocoa powder with an alkali solution of potassium carbonate. This darkens the color and neutralizes the acidity of the powder. Very alkalized cocoa is called black cocoa, which gives Oreos their unique look.
How do you know which to use in a recipe? Most American recipes use plain cocoa powder - good ol' Hershey's is plain cocoa. If a recipe needs Dutch cocoa, it will usually specify it. In general, regular cocoa is used in recipes with baking soda (which is alkaline), and Dutch cocoa is used in recipes with baking powder (which is acidic).
Ground Chocolateaka Powdered Chocolate
Not to be confused with cocoa powder, this is regular eating chocolate that's been ground to make a powder. It is generally used for making drinks, and should not be used in place of unsweetened cocoa powder in recipes.
Baking Chocolateaka Baker's chocolate (Baker's is also a brand name)
What is up with baking chocolate? Does it have sugar added or not? ARRRRG! Well, here's the thing: although the FDA sets the guidelines for what types of chocolate can be labeled "unsweetened, bittersweet, semisweet, milk, and white," they don't specify what can be labeled baking chocolate.
You can find all of the following types of chocolate labeled "baking chocolate":
1) unsweetened chocolate2) bittersweet baking chocolate (chocolate liquor + sugar, but no cocoa butter added)3) bittersweet chocolate (chocolate liquor + sugar + cocoa butter) Most chefs wouldn't consider this true baking chocolate because of the added cocoa butter, though you might find it labeled as such.4) baking-resistant chocolate, i.e. chocolate chips (bittersweet chocolate with less cocoa butter added, so that it won't melt easily)
So how do you know which to use? Hopefully your recipe specifies! In general, recipes will usually specify at least "unsweetened baking chocolate (#1 above)" or "bittersweet baking chocolate (#2 above)." Whether there's cocoa butter added or not probably isn't going to make or break your recipe.
One thing you should avoid, though, is using chocolate chips in place of other types of chocolate when the recipe calls for melting. The low cocoa butter content makes chips bad for melting.Chocolate Coatingaka Compound Chocolate Coating, Summer Coating, Chocolate Flavored Coating
These are vegetable fat-based coatings that contain sugar and some amount cocoa powder, chocolate liquor and/or cocoa butter for flavor. They are not true chocolate. The advantage to using them is that they typically do not "bloom" in high heat. They are best used in making chocolate decorations.
Couvertureaka Coating Chocolate
Chocolate coating or coating chocolate? Aaaaaaah! Couverture is the good stuff - usually some type of dark chocolate with extra cocoa butter added to make it melt nicely for enrobing (drizzling onto the outside of a chocolate confection). Because the high cocoa butter content (roughly 35-45%) makes it melt well, it is ideal for chocolate fountains, and usually no oil need be added.
Giandujaaka Gianduia, pronounced zhahn-DOO-yuh
Chocolate made with toasted hazelnuts ground into powder. It still has a smooth, chocolatey texture, but has the wonderful flavor of hazelnuts. An Italian or Swiss invention, depending on whom you believe. Who cares? It's yummy.
Single Bean Chocolateaka Origin Chocolate, Single Origin, Estate Chocolate, Grand Cru, Single Cru
In general, these types of chocolate that are made from a single type of bean that's grown in a specific region, or even a specific plantation. But not always. We might be talking about a bunch of types of beans all grown on the same plantation. Or a single bean from a bunch of different plantations in the same geographic region. Or heck, a blend of the finest of the same exact type of bean from locations around the globe. It's hard to say.
The point is the manufacturer is carefully selecting the beans to create a unique flavor, but some people argue this is a gimmick. After all, Hershey's selects its beans to create a unique flavor too! In general, however, these types of chocolate are of high quality.
Cocoa Butter
When chocolate liquor is pressed to expel the fat and make cocoa powder, the fat expelled is cocoa butter. Cocoa butter is added to chocolate liquor to make the type of chocolate we enjoy eating; it gives chocolate that smooth, melt-in-your-mouth texture we love.
Cocoa butter is also used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Because it melts at about 97° F, it smoothes into the skin nicely. Also, it has healing properties and is resistant to spoilage.
Chocolatesaka Chocolate Candies, Truffles, Creams, Pralines, etc.
When people speak of "chocolates" in the plural, they are typically referring to chocolate candies, like truffles, chocolate creams, chocolate-covered nuts, and that sort of thing. "Chocolates" are candies made from other types of chocolate.
Chocolate Extract
Chocolate extract is a good way to add chocolate flavor to your cooking without adding fat, but the flavor can be a bit strong. It is made like vanilla extract; cacao beans are soaked in alcohol.
Chocolate Oil
Alas, there is no such thing as a chocolate oil. If you see chocolate oil, it's most likely a chocolate perfume oil, entirely manmade, and not for cooking.