MILK AND MILK PRODUCTS

Next to water, milk is the most important liquid in the bakeshop. As we
discussed in chapter 1,water is essential for the development of gluten. Fresh
milk, being 88 to 91% water, fulfills this function. In addition, milk contributes
to the texture, flavor, crust color, keeping quality, and nutritional value of
baked products.
In this section,we discuss milk products in two parts: first, an explanation
and definition of the various products available; and second, guidelines for
using milk products in baking.
The table below lists the water, fat, and milk solids content of the most
important milk products. Milk solids include protein, lactose (milk sugar), and
minerals.

CATEGORIES AND DEFINITIONS
Fresh Liquid Milk
Whole milk is fresh milk as it comes from the cow, with nothing removed and
nothing added (except when fortified with vitamin D). It contains 3.5% fat
(known as milkfat or butterfat), 8.5% nonfat milk solids, and 88% water.
Composition of Milk Products
Water (%) Fat (%) Milk Solids (%)
Fresh, whole 88 3.5 8.5
Fresh, skim 91 trace 9
Evaporated, whole 72 8 20
Evaporated, skim 72 trace 28
Condensed, wholea 31 8 20
Dried, whole 1.5 27.5 71
Dried, skim 2.5 trace 97.5
aCondensed milk also contains 41% sugar (sucrose).

Fresh whole milk is available in several forms:

Pasteurized milk has been heated to kill disease-producing bacteria and
then cooled. Most milk and cream products on the market have been
pasteurized.

Raw milk is milk that has not been pasteurized. It is not often used and,
in fact, is generally not allowed to be sold.

Certified milk is produced by disease-free herds under strict sanitary
conditions. It may be raw or pasteurized.

Homogenized milk has been processed so the cream doesn’t separate.
This is done by forcing the milk through very tiny holes, which breaks up
the fat into particles so small they stay distributed in the milk.
The above terms apply not only to whole milk but also to other forms.

Skim or nonfat milk has had most or all fat removed. Its fat content is 0.5% or
less. Other forms available to food service and to retail outlets include low-fat
milk (0.5 to 3% milkfat), fortified nonfat or low-fat milk, and flavored milk.
However, these products are generally not used in bakeshops.

Cream
Various types of fresh cream, differing primarily in fat content, are available:
Whipping cream has a fat content of 30 to 40%.Within this category,you
may find light whipping cream (30 to 35%) and heavy whipping cream
(36 to 40%). Light whipping cream has about the same fat content as the
product called single cream in England. Double cream, on the other
hand, is much richer than most heavy whipping cream.With a fat content
of about 48%,double cream is easy to whip and, after whipping, less likely
to weep or to separate into liquid and foam.

Whipping cream labeled ultrapasteurized keeps longer than regular
pasteurized cream, but it does not whip as well. Ultrapasteurized cream
often contains vegetable gums or other stabilizers to partially compensate
for this decreased whipping ability.

Light cream, also called table cream or coffee cream, contains 16 to 22%
fat, usually about 18%.

Half-and-half has a fat content of 10 to 12%,too low for it to be called cream.
Crème fraîche is a slightly aged, cultured heavy cream, thick but
pourable, with a pleasant,somewhat tangy flavor. It is widely used in sauce
making in the savory kitchen. In the bakeshop, it is not often mixed into
doughs or batters, but it is used for whipping and for incorporating into
dessert sauces and Bavarian creams. If crème fraîche is not available, you
can make a close approximation by warming 1 qt (1 L) heavy cream to
about 100°F (38°C), adding 11⁄2 oz (50 mL) buttermilk, and letting the
mixture stand in a warm place until slightly thickened, about 6 to 24 hours.

Fermented Milk Products
Buttermilk is fresh,liquid milk,usually skim milk,that has been cultured or
soured by bacteria. It is usually called cultured buttermilk to distinguish it
from the original buttermilk, which was the liquid left after butter making.
Buttermilk is generally used in recipes calling for sour milk.
Sour cream has been cultured or fermented by adding lactic acid bacteria.
This makes it thick and slightly tangy in flavor. It has about 18% fat.

Yogurt is milk (whole or low-fat) cultured by special bacteria. It has a
custardlike consistency. Most yogurt has additional milk solids added, and
some of it is flavored and sweetened.

Evaporated and Condensed Milk
Evaporated milk is milk, either whole or skim, with about 60% of the
water removed. It is then sterilized and canned. Evaporated milk has a
somewhat cooked flavor.

Condensed milk is whole milk or low-fat milk that has had about 60% of
the water removed and is heavily sweetened with sugar. It is available
canned and in bulk.

Dried Milk
Dried whole milk is whole milk that has been dried to powder. It has
poor keeping qualities because it contains the original butterfat, which
can become rancid.Therefore, it should be purchased in small quantities
and always stored in a cool place.

Nonfat dry milk, also known as nonfat milk solids, is skim milk that has
been dried to a powder. It is available in regular form and in instant form,
which dissolves in water more easily.

Cheese
Two types of cheese are used in the bakeshop, primarily in the production of
cheese fillings and cheesecakes.

Baker’s cheese is a soft, unaged cheese with a very low fat content. It is
dry and pliable and can be kneaded somewhat like a dough. Generally
available in 30-lb and 50-lb packs, it can be frozen for longer storage.

Cream cheese is also a soft,unaged cheese,but it has a higher fat content,
about 35%. It is used mainly in rich cheesecakes and in a few specialty
products.

Two other cheeses are occasionally used for specialty products.
Mascarpone is a type of Italian cream cheese with a tangier flavor than
American-style cream cheese. It is used to make the filling for tiramisu.
Another Italian cheese,ricotta, was originally made from the whey left
over from making cheese out of cow’s milk or sheep’s milk, although now it is
more often made from whole milk than from whey. It has many uses in the
kitchen and bakeshop.A smooth,relatively dry ricotta called ricotta impastato
is used to make a filling for cannoli. Regular ricotta has too much
moisture for this purpose.

GUIDELINES FOR USING MILK
PRODUCTS IN BAKING

Fresh Liquid Milk
Whole milk contains fat,which must be calculated as part of the shortening in
a dough. For this reason, whole and skim milk are not interchangeable in a
formula unless adjustments are made for the fat. Refer to the table on page 43
for the fat content of milk products.
Acid ingredients, such as lemon juice, cream of tartar, and baking powder,
normally should not be added directly to milk, as they will curdle it.

Buttermilk
When buttermilk is produced, the lactose in the milk is converted to lactic
acid.When buttermilk is used in place of regular milk in baked goods such as
cakes or muffins, this acidity must, in most cases, be neutralized by adding
baking soda to the formula.Then, because the soda and acid together release
carbon dioxide, this extra leavening power must be compensated for by
reducing the baking powder, as follows:
For each quart For each liter
(2 lb) buttermilk: (1 kg) buttermilk:
1. Add 0.5 oz baking soda. 1. Add 15 g baking soda.
2. Subtract 1 oz baking powder. 2. Subtract 30 g baking powder.
Cream
Cream is not often used as a liquid in doughs and batters, except in a few
specialty products. In these instances, because of its fat content, it functions as
a shortening as well as a liquid.
Cream is more important in the production of fillings, toppings, dessert
sauces, and cold desserts such as mousses and Bavarian creams. For detailed
instructions on whipping heavy cream into a foam.

Dried Milk
1. Dried milk is often used because of its convenience and low cost. In many
formulas, it is not necessary to reconstitute it.The milk powder is included
with the dry ingredients and water is used as the liquid.This practice is
common in bread making and in no way reduces quality.
2. Proportions for reconstituting dry milk can be calculated from the table
on page 43. For easy use, the equivalents in the table above can be used.
3. Heat-treated dry milk, not low-heat-processed dry milk, should be
purchased by the bakeshop. In the heat-treated product, certain enzymes
that can break down gluten have been destroyed.

STORAGE OF MILK PRODUCTS
Fresh milk and cream, buttermilk and other fermented milk products, and
cheese must be kept refrigerated at all times.
Evaporated milk in unopened cans may be kept in a cool storage area.
After opening, store it in the refrigerator.
Condensed milk in large containers keeps for a week or more after
opening if kept covered and in a cool place.The sugar acts as a preservative.
Stir before using because the sugar tends to settle to the bottom and sides.
Dried milk should be kept in a cool, dark place. It does not need
refrigeration,although you should store it well away from ovens and other heat
sources.Keep the container tightly closed to prevent the milk from absorbing
moisture from the air.

Substituting Dry Milk for Liquid Milk
To substitute for Use
1 lb skim milk 14.5 oz water + 1.5 oz nonfat dry milk
1 lb whole milk 14 oz water + 2 oz dried whole milk
1 lb whole milk 14 oz water + 1.5 oz nonfat dried milk
+ 0.5 oz shortening or 0.7 oz butter
1 kg skim milk 910 g water + 90 g nonfat dry milk
1 kg whole milk 880 g water + 120 g dried whole milk
1 kg whole milk 880 g water + 90 g nonfat dry milk
+ 30 g shortening or 40 g butter